Walking the Kennet and Avon Canal Towpath

A Level Route with Plenty to See

Few walks in Berkshire give so much back for so little effort as the towpath of the Kennet and Avon Canal. Because the water does the climbing — slowly, a lock at a time — the walking is almost entirely flat, the surface is generally firm, and the scenery changes constantly. One minute you are threading between brick warehouses on the edge of Reading, the next you are among reeds and alder with a kingfisher skimming ahead of you.

The canal follows the valley of the River Kennet, one of England's finest chalk streams, westward through Theale, Aldermaston, Woolhampton and Thatcham towards Newbury. Narrowboats chug past, herons stand sentry at every bend, and there is nearly always a village, a station or a pub within reach when you decide you have walked far enough.

Starting in Reading

The natural place to begin is Blakes Lock, where the canal meets the Thames near the Horseshoe Bridge, a short walk from Reading railway station. From here the towpath runs through the centre of town, past the shopping quarter and County Lock, where the water drops sharply and the noise of the weir drowns out the traffic.

This opening stretch is the busiest part of the route: commuters, students, joggers and cyclists all share it, so keep left and keep an ear open. It is also the most convenient, since you are never more than a few minutes from a café, a bench or a shop.

Short Sections Worth Walking

You do not have to commit to a long day. The canal is well served by stations, which makes linear walks easy. A few good options:

• Reading to Theale — about 5.5 miles. Fobney, Southcote and Garston locks, the last of which is turf-sided rather than brick, with grassy banks sloping straight into the water. You pass beneath the M4 before reaching Theale, where the station is a mile or so uphill from the canal.
• Theale to Woolhampton — about 7 miles. Quiet, green and full of birdlife. Sulhamstead and Tyle Mill come and go, then Aldermaston Lock with its pretty cottage and flower beds. Midgham station sits almost on the towpath at Woolhampton, so you can step off the train and be beside the water in seconds.
• Woolhampton to Newbury — about 6 miles. Thatcham Marsh, another turf-sided lock at Monkey Marsh, and the wide, open approach into Newbury with the racecourse hills beyond.
• A gentle hour: Blakes Lock to County Lock and back, roughly two miles return, is ideal for small children, pushchairs in dry weather, or a lunchtime stretch.

Locks, Boats and Wildlife

The rhythm of the canal is the rhythm of its locks. Pause at any of them and you will usually find a boat crew working the paddles, happy to chat while the chamber fills. It is worth timing a walk to include Garston Lock, one of only two surviving turf-sided locks on the waterway, and the sweep of Aldermaston Lock, where the curve of the brickwork is a photographer's favourite.

Wildlife is the other great reward. Look for kingfishers flashing low over the water, little grebes diving between the moored boats, and herons standing motionless on the towpath edge. In summer the banks are thick with purple loosestrife and the air hums with banded demoiselle damselflies and emperor dragonflies. Water voles, once common here, are slowly returning to the quieter reaches; if you see one, enjoy it quietly and keep dogs well back.

Practicalities

The towpath is well used and generally good underfoot, but it is not a manicured path. After heavy rain expect puddles, muddy patches under the trees and, in winter, sections where the Kennet spills over onto the towpath altogether. Waterproof boots are rarely wasted. Much of the route is also a designated cycle route, so walk with awareness, particularly at bends and bridge holes.

Facilities are limited away from town. Take water and a snack; there is no reliable drinking tap or public toilet between Reading and Newbury. Trains along the Reading–Newbury line stop at Theale, Midgham and Thatcham, which makes one-way walks straightforward, and buses run through most of the villages. Dogs are welcome on the towpath but should be kept under control near boats, anglers and nesting birds.

Stopping for a Break

Half the pleasure of a canal walk is the excuse to stop. In Reading, you are spoilt for choice just off the towpath, with cafés and takeaways a minute or two from the water. At Theale there is a village shop and a choice of pubs a short detour uphill. Woolhampton is the classic resting point: a canalside inn with a garden looking straight at the lock, plus a village shop for essentials. Newbury offers the widest range of options at the western end of the stretch.

Whichever section you choose, go slowly. The canal rewards the unhurried walker — the one who stops to watch a heron, reads the faded lettering on an old wharf wall, and lets a narrowboat pass before carrying on. Take a flask, pick a dry day, and let the water set the pace.